A look into the life and career of Claire McCardell…
Claire McCardell is an American fashion designer born on May 24, 1905, in rederick, Maryland. Her family consisted of her father, Adrian, a state senator and bank president, her style-conscious mother, Eleanor, and three younger brothers. In her teens, McCardell wanted to study fashion in New York City. Her father, who was known to be very protective of her, preferred that she do her studies locally and attend Hood College, where she majored in Home Economics. After two years, she followed her passion and went to Parsons School of Design in NewYork City. Through her program at Parsons, McCardell also had an opportunity to study abroad in Paris in 1926.
Inspiration came to McCardell in several ways. When she was young and played sports with her younger brothers, she learned quickly that traditional girls' dresses were not convenient for athletic play. While in Paris, she soaked in the energy of the artists she was exposed to and drew much inspiration from her studies of Madeleine Vionnet's designs.
As a career woman living in New York City, she saw how much easier men made their way on busy streets, through revolving doors, and climbing stairs in tall buildings than women did. Men wore flat shoes and wool suits that were less prone to wrinkling, their garments had pockets, and men didn't have to fuss with the volumes of layers that women's skirts had. McCardell believed women should have as much ease of movement and comfort in their garments as men, whether at work or play.
Through these observations and studies, McCardell created a loose and unstructured dress, and when paired with a belt, the dress took on a flattering shape by creating soft folds above and below the waist. Belts were often made from self-fabric that matched the dress, but they could also be made from contrasting and decorative materials. These dresses offered a lot of flexibility and looked stylish in an office setting, for playing bridge, or for an evening out. The design acquired the name "Monastic" because the loose design was as simple as a monk's cassock. This dress became wildly popular due to its ease of care and wearing and became the best-selling dress in 1938.
Monastic Dresses
Through these observations and studies, McCardell created a loose and unstructured dress, and when paired with a belt, the dress took on a flattering shape by creating soft folds above and below the waist. Belts were often made from self-fabric that matched the dress, but they could also be made from contrasting and decorative materials.
These dresses offered a lot of flexibility and looked stylish in an office setting, for playing bridge, or for an evening out. The design acquired the name "Monastic" because the loose design was as simple as a monk's cassock. This dress became wildly popular due to its ease of care and wearing and became the best-selling dress in 1938.
The Popover Dress
In 1942 McCardell came up with another first-of-its-kind style called the “Popover Dress.” It was born from the idea that women’s fashion could span from homemaking tasks to social engagements and entertaining.
These dresses wrapped in the front and originated in denim and neutral cotton fabrics that included a coordinating potholder that would tuck in the dress’s pocket. As these dresses grew in popularity, they were fashioned in different lengths and types of fabrics.
Business and Feminist Trendsetter
McCardell married at age 38, and on her terms – she insisted on working and growing her career.
When negotiating her role in re-establishing the Townley label that she worked for when the Monastic dress originated, she insisted that her name be part of the new label and that she would have creative control, resulting in the new “Claire McCardell Clothes by Townley” label.
In this one move, McCardell positioned herself as one of the first American Designers to have their name prominently on a label and be a woman in lead roles within the company. McCardell’s business savvy did not end here. She was also innovative in creating coordinating separates and multi-branches of fashion and accessories branded by the designer’s name. Freeing women of the structures of clothing and undergarments also made her a trendsetter in the early feminist movement.
Legacy
In 1944 McCardell returned to Parsons School of Design as an instructor and remained affiliated with the college until her death. Claire (seated) is shown with an unidentified student at Parson's School of Design, 1952.
Claire McCardell had an extraordinary career as a fashion designer, businesswoman, fashion educator, author, and fashion influencer. Famous movie stars such as Joan Crawford and Lauren Bacall and style-minded homemakers loved the classic American look of McCardell's designs. Many designers who came after McCardell regarded her as inspirational in their careers. These designers include and are not limited to Diane von Furstenberg, Michael Kors, Isaac Mizrahi, Anna Sui, Donna Karan, and Calvin Klein.
From innovative designs such as the Monastic dress and the Popover, ballet flats, and the development of sportswear separates, McCardell left a lasting mark on the fashion world. McCardell received several awards, such as the Coty American Fashion Critics Award (1944), Woman of the Year from the Women's National Press Club (1950), and was named one of the 100 most influential Americans in the 20th Century by Life magazine (1990). Claire McCardell passed away on March 22, 1958, from colon cancer. Her family decided to end her label and allow her name to die with her. However, her legacy as one of the great American designers lives on.
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References
Arnold, R. (2008). Movement and Modernity: New York Sportswear, Dance, and Exercise in the 1930s and 1940s. Fashion Theory, 12(3), 341-358.
Claire McCardell. (n.d.). Retrieved from this site.
Yohannan, K., & Nolf, N. (1998). Claire McCardell: Redefining Modernism. New York, NY: Harry N. Abrams, Inc.
Dickinson, E. E. (2018, December 12). A Dress for Everyone: Claire McCardell took on the fashion industry — and revolutionized what women wear. Retrieved from this site.
Meger, M. (n.d.). Claire McCardell: In Print & Out of the Box. Retrieved from this site.
